Combining science and skincare expertise for superior underarm care

Deodorants is one of the biggest categories at Unilever. It has continued to deliver double-digit growth, as shown in our first half-year results for 2024.

And new innovations are a key driver of this growth. Be it Dove’s expansion into whole-body deodorants, Rexona’s body heat activated technology, or Axe’s new fine fragrance line, our deep scientific expertise allows us to create products that offer consumers a variety of formats and formulations to suit their needs.

Science-led innovations that meet evolving consumer demand

The new pro-ceramide formulation was developed to help address the issue of shaving-induced dryness.

“We’re focused on developing superior, science-led products that deliver on consumer needs,” explains Lynda Grainger, Deodorant Consumer Benefit Platform Leader. And Dove’s Advanced Care antiperspirant with pro-ceramide range is an example of this strategy in action.

“This is Dove’s first antiperspirant product on the market to use pro-ceramide technology,” she says. “Think of it as skincare meets antiperspirant.”

The range combines two of Unilever’s world-leading deodorant technologies – 72-hour protection and pro-ceramide skincare – and promises superior performance for a variety of consumer needs.

“What we’re offering with this new range is a hybrid product that combines the market-leading antiperspirant benefits our consumers expect from Dove, with the added benefit of skincare,” says Lynda.

Skincare meets antiperspirant protection

“We know that consumers are aware that hair removal is one of the biggest causes of underarm irritation. However, we also know they do not want to change that behaviour because it’s part of their beauty regime,” explains Lynda.

What are ceramides and how do they work?

Unlike products that deliver ceramides topically, this range doesn’t actually contain ceramides.

Instead, the product supports the skin’s barrier by including ingredients that can help the skin replenish its own stock of ceramides. These are natural lipids that hold skin cells together in order to keep moisture in and harmful elements out.

“The skin is full of thousands of unique ceramide structures, which all work in slightly different ways. Underarm skin can be delicate due to habitual hair removal. When hair is removed from the underarms, the ceramides in the skin are also depleted,” explains Lynda.

“For example, if the skin’s barrier is depleted in one particular class of ceramides, the skin can use the ingredients in these products to make that ceramide.”

New measurement capabilities unlocking innovation

With almost 30 years of axillary (underarm) expertise from Dove, and backed by Unilever’s well-established track record of over 100 axillary skin recovery clinicals and thousands of sweat and odour efficacy studies, we have identified proven ingredients and technologies that support moisturisation and maintain overall skin health.

However, this innovation involved a new way of measuring benefits to the skin. “We developed measurement capabilities that looked at different biomarkers within the skin’s surface and how they change as a consequence of the product we put on them,” says Lynda.

In this case, Unilever scientists looked at ceramide biomarkers and measured how our product helps skin recover and replenish ceramides. “We actually have film footage of skin at a microscopic level that shows how quickly the ceramides can repair the skin’s barrier after using our product within just 24 hours,” she adds.

The new range, which launched with the campaign ‘Shave it? Dove it!’, seeks to establish Dove Advanced Care as part of a two-step shaving routine, where the brand becomes the indisputable aftercare antiperspirant.

The Dove Pro-Ceramide Advanced range was launched in the US this year and is currently available in more than 20 scents. Every scent has been crafted by world-class perfumers to deliver elevated fragrances.